FAQ: Scratchers for cats

Products made for cats are usually built from materials that are safe once dry. If a new cat tree smells strongly of chemicals, air it out well before use, and for DIY builds use non-toxic, water-based products.

They can: loop carpet or loosely wound rope sometimes snags a claw, frightening the cat or even injuring it. Choose tightly wound sisal, smooth sisal fabric or cardboard and keep the cat's claws in good shape.

Not unless the window or balcony is netted: from the cat tree a cat easily reaches the sill and can fall out. Only place a cat tree by a window that is closed or securely screened.

Protruding staples or nails can scratch the cat's paws or damage its claws, so hammer them in, pull them out or cover them at once. If the scratcher keeps coming apart and sharp spots appear, it is better to replace it.

The cat may be marking territory due to stress, such as a new pet, or showing a urinary health problem. See a vet, clean the spot with an enzymatic cleaner and check the litter box set-up.

Some cats chew sisal or cardboard out of boredom, during play or while teething, as kittens do. If the chewing is constant and the cat swallows material, talk to a vet and offer safe chew toys.

Usually the scratcher is not where the cat wants to mark, or its surface or height does not resemble the furniture. Put an extra scratcher right beside the piece being scratched, matching its surface and direction.

New smells, a large size or wobbling can frighten a cat. Let it adjust at its own pace, rub the tree with its scent, put treats on the low platforms and check that the structure really is stable.

The cat may dislike the posts' surface, height or direction — perhaps it prefers horizontal scratching. Put a different type of scratcher nearby and watch which one it chooses.

The scratcher may be worn, wobbly or moved, but reduced activity can also signal pain, for example in the joints. If you notice other changes in behaviour too, talk to a vet.

A cat may avoid the tree if it got scared, the tree wobbles or another cat occupies it. In older cats it is often a sign of joint pain, so it is worth consulting a vet and offering a lower alternative.

Cats like to mark key places — by the entrance, near the sleeping area or somewhere prominent. If the spot is furniture or a wall, put the scratcher right there, because the cat will keep coming back to it.

Put the scratcher or cat tree where the dog cannot reach it, such as a room with a cat flap or high on a wall. A cat needs a quiet, high place out of the dog's reach to retreat to.

Not entirely: a scratcher helps shed old claw layers but does not shorten the claws themselves. Many indoor cats, especially older ones, still need their claws trimmed from time to time.

It depends on the cat's age and activity, so check the claws regularly and trim them when they start snagging fabric or clicking on the floor. If you are unsure how to do it safely, ask a vet to show you.

Soft claw caps can protect furniture temporarily, but they do not replace a scratcher and must be the right size and fitted correctly. They need regular replacing, and the cat should still have a place to stretch.

No. Declawing is an amputation of the toe ends that can cause long-term pain and behaviour problems, so vets do not recommend it and it is banned in many countries. Scratching should be redirected to a scratcher.

That is normal: when scratching, a cat sheds the old outer layer of the claw, revealing a new one underneath. Crescent-shaped translucent husks near the scratcher show the cat is using it properly.

A scratcher helps claws renew, but in older or inactive cats claws can still overgrow and curl into the paw pads. Check the claws regularly and see a vet if you spot an ingrown one.

If the claw is torn or bleeding, or the cat limps and licks its paw, see a vet, as a damaged claw can be painful and become infected. Check the scratcher for spots where the claw could have caught.