FAQ: Bowls & Feeders for cats

Mass-produced food-safe ceramic bowls must meet safety requirements, but on handmade or decorative ceramics the glaze is not always food-safe. Choose bowls clearly marked as suitable for food.

BPA is bisphenol A, a chemical used in some plastics that manufacturers try to keep out of food. If you choose a plastic bowl or fountain, a ‘BPA-free’ label shows the manufacturer did not use this substance.

Aluminium bowls are light but soft, dent and scratch easily, and acidic or salty food can react with the metal. Stainless steel or ceramic is more reliable for everyday use.

A varnished or oiled wooden stand copes with the odd splash, but if constantly wet it can swell and go mouldy. Wipe up spilt water, renew the protective finish now and then and choose a stand with removable bowls.

A snuffle mat is a mat of fabric strips among which dry kibble or treats are hidden. The cat searches with its nose and paws, so it eats more slowly and stays occupied; the mat needs washing regularly.

Some feeders play a call recorded by the owner before dispensing food. Many cats quickly link this sound to food and come to the feeder, though an unfamiliar recording can startle some cats.

The dispensing mechanism briefly whirs or rattles, and some models also beep. If the feeder is near a bedroom, choose a quieter model or switch off the sound signals if possible.

For one cat a hopper of a few litres, which holds dry food for several weeks, is often enough. A very large hopper is no advantage if food sits in it too long and goes stale, so choose capacity based on how much your cat eats.

Kittens eat often and in small portions, so a feeder that allows several small meals a day is suitable. Check that the smallest portion is not too large and that the kitten kibble works with the mechanism.

Many feeders have a slot for a desiccant pack that helps keep the food in the hopper dry and prevents jams. Replace it as the manufacturer advises and make sure the cat cannot reach or eat it.

A few days before leaving, test the schedule and portions, put in fresh batteries, fill the hoppers and leave extra water bowls nearby. Ask someone to visit the cat and check that everything is working.

Quieter fountains usually have a submerged pump and a smooth flow without a big drop, since falling water trickles more loudly. Care matters too: a clean pump with enough water runs more quietly.

There are cleaning products made for pet fountains, but they are for washing, not for adding to drinking water. After cleaning, rinse all parts well with clean water; add nothing to the cat’s water unless a vet has recommended it.

Cats differ: some like drinking from a waterfall stream, others from a calm flowing surface and others from a bubbling top. Many fountains have several flow modes or interchangeable tops, so it is worth trying a few.

Yes, if the fountain is large and stable enough and the cat is not afraid of the dog. Dogs dirty water faster with saliva and food bits, so such a fountain and its filter will need cleaning and changing more often.

Large cats need wider bowls so their whiskers and face do not touch the sides, and larger water containers. Some large cats find a slightly raised stand more comfortable, so they do not have to bend down low.

A cat may choose toilet water because it is cool and often refreshed. It is unsafe because of bacteria and cleaning product residue, so keep the lid down and offer fresh water in a fountain or wide bowl.

Yes, the water may contain fertiliser, plant sap or, for example, lily pollen, which is highly toxic to cats. Cover vases or keep them out of the cat’s reach, and provide a more attractive water source.

For a longer walk take a small travel bottle with a fold-out bowl or a collapsible bowl. Do not let the cat drink from puddles, which may contain chemicals or parasites.

An open bowl quickly collects dust, hair and insects, but a cat may not use a covered one. It is better to change the water more often and choose a fountain with a filter that catches hair.