FAQ: Beds & Bedding for cats

Shake out or vacuum the hair first so it does not clog the machine's filter. Wash according to the label on a gentle cycle with unscented detergent, and a laundry bag can help catch hair.

Choose a mild, unscented detergent and avoid fabric softener and strongly scented products, as a cat's nose is very sensitive and a strong smell can put it off. Rinse well so no residue is left in the fabric.

Hair is best removed with a vacuum, a rubber brush, a damp rubber glove or a lint roller before washing. Regular brushing, especially during shedding season, reduces the amount of hair in the bed.

Washing and drying in fresh air usually removes the smell. Treat urine or vomit stains first with an enzymatic cleaner made for pets, and if the smell stays in the filling, the bed is worth replacing.

Wash the bed and blankets at the hottest temperature the label allows, vacuum the surroundings and throw away the vacuum bag. Treat the cat and other pets with a flea product your vet recommends, as washing the bed alone is not enough.

The bed must dry completely, as damp filling can develop mould and smell. Dry it in fresh air or in a tumble dryer if the label allows, and shake out thick fibre filling several times.

Vacuum a non-washable bed regularly, spot-clean stains with a damp cloth and mild soap or an enzymatic cleaner, and dry it well. A blanket laid on top that can be washed often helps preserve the bed.

The foam mattress usually cannot be washed, so wash only the removable cover and just vacuum and air the foam. A waterproof inner cover protects the foam from liquids and odours.

A felt cave usually just needs vacuuming, brushing off hair and airing. Wash it only as the manufacturer instructs, usually by hand in cool water, and dry it reshaped.

Always unplug the bed before cleaning and remove the heating element if that is allowed. Wash only the cover according to the label, wipe the heating element dry and never soak it.

After an infectious illness, wash the bed at the highest temperature the label allows and dry it well. Ask your vet which disinfectant to use and whether to throw the bed away, as some pathogens are very hardy.

Clean the bed with an enzymatic cleaner and wash it so no smell remains to draw the cat back. Repeated vomiting or urinating in the bed can signal illness or stress, so talk to a vet.

Yes, a spare cover lets you wash the bed without leaving the cat without its spot, and gives the other time to dry fully. This is especially handy for kittens and older or sick cats whose bedding needs frequent washing.

A heated bed made for pets is usually safe if it keeps a low temperature, has overheat protection and is used according to the instructions. Check the cord and heating element regularly and stop using a damaged bed at once.

Route the cord behind furniture or hide it in a cable protector out of the cat's reach, especially if it tends to chew. Choose a bed with a reinforced, more chew-resistant cord and inspect it regularly.

It can if the bed is too hot or the cat cannot move away from the heat, especially kittens and older or ill cats. The heated area should cover only part of the bed, or there should be an unheated spot next to it so the cat can choose.

Usually yes, as the cat moves away when it gets too hot and the fabric between the cat and radiator reduces the heat. Still, watch older, ill or less mobile cats so they do not lie on a very hot surface for long.

Yes, if the glass is dirty, the suction cups are worn or the hammock does not match the cat's weight. Check the suction cups regularly, attach them to clean glass and stay within the manufacturer's weight limit.

Yes, swallowed fabric, threads or filling can block the intestines. Remove torn beds, replace them with tougher ones, and if the cat vomits, stops eating or becomes lethargic, see a vet.

Cats love playing with and swallowing string, and a swallowed thread can cause serious intestinal damage. Choose beds without long tassels or loose hanging parts, and trim any loose threads that appear.