FAQ: Supplies for birds

No. Damp, mouldy or long-stored food can make birds ill. Buy as much as you can use, keep it dry and put it out in small portions.

It is not recommended. Wild bird food may contain large seeds and fat in amounts too rich for a pet parrot, and hygiene standards are sometimes lower. Buy food made for your pet bird's species.

Choose hulled sunflower seeds or mixes without husks and fillers birds do not eat. A tray under the feeder can catch husks, and spilled food should be swept up regularly so it does not attract rodents.

Yes, blackbirds, fieldfares and waxwings in particular benefit in winter from cut apples, pears and frozen berries. Put them on the ground or a platform and replace them once they freeze solid or start to rot.

Check the description for exact dimensions, bar spacing, material and which species the cage is made for. A pull-out tray, wide doors and a grille above the floor so the bird does not walk in droppings are handy.

Yes, if the cage is sturdy, rust-free and the coating is not flaking. Before use, clean it thoroughly with hot water and a pet-safe disinfectant, and replace old perches and toys with new ones.

A pair of lovebirds does well in a cage at least about 80 cm long with bar spacing of about 1.2–1.5 cm. Because they love to chew, choose a sturdy metal cage without plastic parts they could gnaw.

Length matters most for canaries and finches so they can fly: at least about 60–80 cm, and more for a pair or group. Bar spacing should not exceed about 1 cm, since these birds are small.

A large parrot's cage must let it spread its wings fully and turn around without its tail touching the floor, and bar thickness and spacing must match its strength. Most large parrots also need daily time outside the cage.

A stand raises the cage to a convenient height, and wheels make cleaning and moving easier. The stand must be stable and not tip over if the bird moves about or children or pets bump into it.

A seed guard is a fabric or plastic strip around the bottom of the cage that catches scattered husks and feathers. It does not replace regular cleaning but greatly reduces the mess on the floor.

Fruit trees such as apple and pear, as well as willow, birch, hazel and maple, are generally considered safe if they have not been sprayed with chemicals. Avoid conifers, oak, thuja, hawthorn and unknown ornamental trees.

Collect branches away from roads and sprayed orchards, scrub them with hot water and a brush, then dry them well. Some owners briefly heat them in the oven to kill insects, keeping an eye that the wood does not overheat.

Rope perches are flexible and many birds like them, but they need regular checks. Once the rope frays or long threads appear that could catch the nails, trim or replace the perch.

Replace perches when they are heavily chewed, cracked, permanently dirty or start to go mouldy. Wooden perches wear out over time, so it is handy to keep spares and swap them one at a time so the change is not too big for the bird.

Heated perches can help in cooler rooms or for a recovering bird, but a healthy bird in a warm room usually does not need one. Use only perches made for birds, follow the instructions and make sure the cable is out of beak reach.

Usually at least three: one for dry food, one for water and one for fresh food. If several birds share the cage, add more bowls in different places so a dominant bird cannot take over all of them.

Plastic bowls are light and cheap, but they scratch over time, harbour bacteria, and chewing birds damage them. Stainless steel or ceramic lasts longer and is easier to wash.

An enclosed drinker stays cleaner because no husks or droppings get in, while drinking and bathing from a dish is more natural for the bird. Many owners use both, but first make sure the bird knows how to drink from the drinker.

Hang bowls next to perches so the bird can reach them easily, but not under perches where droppings fall in. Keep water and food a little apart so seeds do not end up in the water.