FAQ: Supplies for birds

Natural perches and mineral blocks usually help the nails and beak wear down on their own. If they are overgrown, have a vet do the first trim, because cutting too much can cause bleeding.

For birds that never get direct daylight through an open window, a UVA and UVB lamp made for birds can help with vitamin D production and a natural rhythm. Glass blocks UVB rays, so a sunny windowsill does not replace them.

Most pet birds need about 10–12 hours of darkness and quiet per day. Shorter sleep can raise stress and trigger hormonal behaviour, so the cage can be covered or moved somewhere quieter in the evening.

A cover made of breathable fabric helps the bird sleep peacefully, especially if the room has lights or a TV on in the evening. It must not cut off air entirely, and its threads should be out of the bird's reach from inside the cage.

Most indoor birds do well at normal room temperature, roughly 18–25 °C, without sudden swings. Draughts, heat next to a radiator and direct sun on the cage are more dangerous than coolness.

Move the cage away from the sun and window, provide fresh cool water and a bath, and lightly mist the bird with water. Open-beak panting and held-out wings indicate overheating: move the bird somewhere cooler and see a vet if it does not improve.

During the moult a bird needs more protein and calm, so you can offer special moulting food or egg food and let it bathe more often. Some birds are grumpier then, and if feathers fall out heavily or bald patches appear, consult a vet.

Feather plucking can be caused by illness, parasites, poor diet, boredom, stress or hormones, so the bird should first be examined by a vet. After that, more toys, foraging tasks, attention and enough sleep help.

Use a small enclosed carrier with a low perch so the bird does not flap around and get hurt. In winter cover the carrier with a towel against the cold, and in summer never leave it in a hot car.

Small birds do well in a compact plastic or metal carrier with a secure door and ventilation holes, while large parrots need a sturdy, chew-proof one. It should be only big enough for the bird to perch comfortably and turn around.

It is best if a reliable person looks after the bird every day: changes the water, tops up the food and checks the bird is well. Leave clear instructions, enough food and the vet's contact details, because even a few days unattended in heat or cold can be dangerous.

Automatic feeders and larger drinkers help if you are away for a day or two, but they can clog with husks or fail. Do not leave a bird without someone looking in on it for longer than that.

In warm weather a caged bird can be taken out to a balcony or garden, but only in the shade and protected from wind, rain, predators and wild bird droppings. Never leave the cage in the sun or go far away, because the weather can change quickly.

Harnesses made for parrots make taking a bird outdoors safer, but the bird must be introduced to them gradually, and only a tame bird. They are usually not suitable for small birds such as budgies.

Not every vet treats birds, so find a clinic with an exotic animal or avian specialist in advance. Keep the contact details next to the cage so you do not have to search for them in a hurry.

A new bird may carry diseases or parasites that are not obvious at first. Keep it in a separate cage in another room for a few weeks, and consult a vet before introducing it to your other birds.

Budgies are flock birds, so they usually feel better in pairs, especially if the owners are away during the day. A budgie kept alone needs a great deal of human attention and activity.

A canary needs a long cage for flying, several natural perches, a canary seed mix, a bath, a cuttlebone and fresh greens. Canaries usually do not play with toys the way parrots do; space matters more to them.

Cockatiels need a bigger cage than budgies, at least about 70–80 cm long and tall enough not to cramp the long tail and crest. Bar spacing of about 1.2–1.8 cm suits them, and horizontal bars make climbing easier.

Cockatiels are prone to night frights caused by noises, lights or shadows, which make them flap wildly in the cage. A dim night light in the room, a partly covered cage and a quiet spot away from the window help.