FAQ: Treats for birds

A full parrot wants treats less, so train before its usual mealtime. Try a different treat, a quieter spot and shorter sessions, but never withhold food from the bird for the sake of training.

Treats help a bird link people with something pleasant, but first it needs a few quiet days to settle into its new surroundings. After that you can calmly offer a treat through the bars, and later from your palm.

Treat morsels during training should be very small, and their total counts towards the day's treat allowance. If you train often, cut back on other treats or fatty seeds.

Yes, clickers are widely used for parrot training: the click marks the right action and a treat follows straight away. First the bird has to learn that the click means a treat is coming.

Yes, if you leave a treat or favourite toy in the carrier for a few days beforehand, the bird becomes less afraid of it. That makes a journey or a vet visit calmer.

Birds do not understand punishment, so taking a treat away for bad behaviour usually teaches nothing. It works better to reward the behaviour you want and ignore what you do not, and to seek expert advice for serious behaviour problems.

It is a soft mix of egg, breadcrumbs or biscuit crumbs and other ingredients, higher in protein than seed. It is often given to canaries, finches and parrots during breeding, chick rearing or the moult.

At ordinary times a small amount of egg food once or twice a week is enough for a canary, and more often during breeding and chick rearing. The manufacturer gives the exact amount and frequency.

Prepared or moistened egg food spoils quickly, especially in the warmth, so remove whatever is left after a few hours. Keep the dry product tightly closed as the pack instructs.

Hard-boiled, finely mashed egg without salt is a traditional protein source for many birds, especially during breeding. Give a little and remove what is left within a few hours.

Mealworms are often given to insect-eating birds and some finches, especially when rearing chicks. They are fatty, so parrots and seed-eaters usually do not need them or get them only rarely.

Live mealworms are more appealing to birds because they move, and they contain more moisture, but they have to be kept properly. Dried ones are easier to store and portion, and can be briefly soaked in water before feeding.

Birds that are breeding and raising chicks usually need more protein and calcium, so they are given egg food, sprouted seeds and minerals. There is no need to increase sweet treats.

During the moult a bird needs more protein and nutrients, so egg food, sprouted seeds, greens and vegetables are often offered. If feathers fall out very heavily or bald patches appear, see a vet.

An indoor bird usually does fine on its normal diet in winter, though there is less fresh produce to choose from, so carrots, cabbage, frozen vegetables or sprouted seeds come in handy. There is no need to add fatty treats just because it is winter.

On a hot day you can offer chilled pieces of fruit or vegetables or greens sprinkled with water. Frozen treats are best avoided, and the main help in the heat is fresh water, shade and a chance to bathe.

Pantry moths usually appear in grain kept for a long time in warm rooms. Buy packs you will use up within a few weeks, keep them in airtight containers and check regularly for webbing or larvae.

Sweets, cakes, chocolate or salty snacks made for people are not suitable for birds — they are full of sugar, salt and fat and sometimes contain poisonous ingredients. For a celebration, offer a bird treat or a piece of its favourite fruit.

Chocolate contains theobromine and caffeine, which are poisonous to birds even in small amounts and can harm the heart and nervous system. If your bird has eaten chocolate, contact a vet immediately.

A small piece of plain bread now and then usually does a healthy pet bird no harm, but its nutritional value is low and it may contain too much salt. Mouldy or sweet bread must not be given.