FAQ: Toys for birds

Toys can be offered once a young bird is eating on its own and perching confidently. One or two simple toys are enough at first, so the cage does not seem crowded and intimidating.

Older birds often suit lighter, softer toys hung lower down and easy to reach, as well as foraging trays on the floor. They still enjoy activities, though they may play more calmly.

Such a bird suits toys on a platform or the floor, foraging trays and toys hung low that do not require climbing to reach. Leg problems and flying difficulties should be assessed by a vet.

For a bird that cannot fly, climbing toys, ladders and a play gym are especially important so it can move and exercise. Arrange toys so they can be reached by walking or climbing.

For an ill or recovering bird, rest, warmth and the vet’s instructions matter most, so it is often worth reducing the number of toys. Leave one or two simple toys that pose no risk of falling or injury.

Before leaving, hang new or long-unseen toys and hide some treats in foraging toys. This helps keep the bird busy, but when you get home it still needs your attention and time outside the cage.

In the first days one or two simple toys in the cage are enough, so the surroundings do not seem frightening. Once the bird settles and starts eating and exploring calmly, you can gradually add more toys.

Foot toys are small, light items the bird can hold in its foot and chew, such as blocks, balls or bits of cork. They are especially popular with parrots that like to eat and play holding things in their foot.

Suitable options are hard plastic balls with holes, woven rattan or sisal balls and balls with a bell inside. The holes must be sized so the beak, a toe or the tongue cannot get stuck.

Rattles made for birds appeal to parrots that like toys that make a noise. They must be sturdy so the bird cannot open them and get at the pellets or beads inside.

Beads should be large enough that the bird cannot swallow them and firmly threaded on secure rope or a rod. In toys for small birds, tiny beads or sequins that are easy to pull off are a hazard.

It is a post with several rings that the parrot learns to take off and put back on, so it trains coordination and suits training. The rings should match the bird’s size and be impossible to break.

Budgies are curious and playful, so rolling and tossing a ball is natural play for them, especially if a bell rings inside. The ball should be light, sturdy and have no dangerous gaps.

Yes, some toys, such as mirrors, hides, boxes or soft toys, can encourage mating or nesting behaviour. If the bird becomes territorial, rubs against a toy or regurgitates food, it is worth removing that toy.

A snuggle hut or tent is a soft fabric shelter the bird can crawl into. Some parrots love them, but they can encourage hormonal behaviour, and frayed fabric can catch nails or be swallowed, so they need checking and thoughtful use.

During breeding season it is worth limiting toys that resemble a nest or a mate, such as boxes, hides, mirrors and soft toys. Offer more foraging and chew toys instead, which channel energy elsewhere.

Some parrots become possessive over a favourite toy or spot, especially when hormones are high. You can temporarily remove or move that toy, and keep your hands away from it until the bird has relaxed.

Ordinary plush toys are not recommended for birds, because their fibres, stuffing and eyes can be swallowed or tangle around toes. If the bird wants a soft texture, bird toys made of natural materials are a safer choice.

Fabric toys can be safe while they are intact, but frayed threads and loops can catch nails or toes. They need frequent washing, checking and throwing away as soon as holes or long threads appear.

Natural hemp rope toys are strong, slightly rough and good for chewing and climbing, much like sisal. As with other ropes, they need checking and replacing once the fibres start to fray.