FAQ: Health for birds

A healthy bird's beak wears down naturally as it chews twigs, toys, cuttlebone or mineral blocks. The key is to give it enough to chew; you should not shorten the beak yourself.

It is a mineral stone or perch with a rough surface that the bird wipes and cleans its beak on. It helps the beak wear down naturally but does not replace a range of things to chew.

An overgrown or crooked beak can be a sign of illness or diet problems, so the bird needs to see a vet. Do not cut or file the beak yourself – it contains blood vessels and nerves.

The first time it is best to leave nail trimming to a vet or ask them to show you how. Nails contain a blood vessel that bleeds if cut, so the right clippers and experience are needed.

Natural wood perches of different thicknesses with an uneven surface help nails wear down naturally and exercise the feet. One mineral or rougher perch in the cage can also help, but not all perches should be rough.

These are rough-surfaced perches on which a bird wears down its nails a little and wipes its beak while perching. Only one such perch per cage is worthwhile, as sitting on a rough surface all the time can irritate the skin of the feet.

Many vets advise against them, as the rough paper can irritate and damage a bird's feet while barely shortening the nails. Natural wood perches of varied thickness are a better choice.

Bird owners often keep a styptic powder made for animals. If the bleeding does not stop quickly or the bird seems weak, contact a vet straight away, as even a small loss of blood is dangerous for a bird.

The most common reason is uniform, smooth perches on which the nails do not wear down, but age or health can also play a part. If the nails grow unusually fast or curl, it is worth seeing a vet.

Nails that are too long catch on fabric or cage bars, curl round, and make it hard for the bird to grip a perch firmly. In that case the nails are worth trimming at a vet's or by an experienced person.

Yes, most birds replace their feathers once or several times a year, so there are more feathers in the cage and the bird may be quieter. A good diet, peace and quiet and the chance to bathe matter at this time.

Bald patches, feathers that keep breaking or are damaged, a moult that drags on, or a bird plucking its own feathers should be a concern. In these cases the bird needs to see a vet.

Feather plucking can have both health and behavioural causes, so the bird should first be seen by a vet. Only once illness has been ruled out is it worth changing the surroundings, playing more and giving the bird activities.

For many birds a bath of clean water or a fine mist is enough to care for the feathers. If you use a spray made for birds, follow the label and avoid spraying the eyes and beak.

No, oils and creams stick the feathers together so they lose their ability to insulate and repel water. Apply only what a vet has prescribed to a bird's feathers or skin.

Pet birds can get red mites, feather lice and scaly mites, and canaries and finches can get air sac mites. A vet should determine which parasite is affecting the bird and how to treat it.

Warning signs are restlessness, especially at night, frequent scratching and preening, damaged feathers, paleness or weakness. If you notice these signs, contact a vet, as other illnesses can look similar.

The red mite feeds on birds' blood at night and hides in cracks in the cage, perches or coop during the day. That is why it is often not visible on the bird itself in the daytime, even when the infestation is heavy.

In the evening the cage can be covered with a white cloth and checked in the morning for tiny red or dark specks. It is also worth checking perch ends, cracks and nest box corners, especially at night with a torch.

The key is to clean the cage and perches regularly, quarantine new birds and keep them from contact with wild birds. It is also worth inspecting the bird and cage regularly so parasites are spotted early.