FAQ: Carriers & Crates for birds

Take the bird out in a closed room with windows and doors shut and any fan switched off. Ideally place the carrier against the home cage door and let the bird cross over on its own, and if you have to lift it out, do so calmly and confidently.

A net can injure wings, legs or the beak and badly frighten the bird, so it is worth using only as a last resort when the bird is flying loose and cannot be caught any other way. A gentler method is to darken the room and pick the bird up in a towel.

In dim light birds naturally calm down and move less, so in a partly covered or more enclosed carrier they cope with the trip more calmly. Complete darkness is not necessary, and ventilation must stay clear.

A light, breathable cotton cloth or thin towel works well, as long as the bird cannot pull it through the bars and chew it. Avoid fluffy fabric with long loops that can catch claws, and thick synthetic covers that trap heat.

Usually covering two or three sides is enough, leaving at least one side or the top open for air and light. A fully covered carrier quickly gets stuffy in warm weather, so watch whether the bird starts breathing with its beak open.

Wing clipping does not replace a carrier and is not needed for travel: even with clipped wings a frightened bird can flutter off and get lost. Discuss whether to clip with an avian vet, and always use a closed carrier when travelling.

Bird harnesses let you take a parrot outdoors briefly, but they do not replace a carrier for car travel or at the clinic. A parrot needs to be introduced to a harness gradually, and a panicking bird can injure itself in one, so never leave it unattended.

Droppings tell the vet a lot about digestion and kidney function, so it helps to leave clean paper on the carrier floor where they show up clearly. You can also bring a photo or a sample from the home cage if the bird leaves nothing during the trip.

Besides the bird in its carrier, bring a towel, a small amount of its usual food and a list of what it eats, how it behaves and when you noticed changes. If the vet asks, also bring photos of the home cage or the packaging of any supplements the bird gets.

Yes, a familiar carrier reduces stress, and if the bird is used to it the visit goes more calmly. What matters is that the carrier opens easily so the vet can take the bird out quickly and safely.

Keep the carrier on your lap or beside you, partly covered, and away from dogs and cats. If the waiting room is noisy, ask whether you can wait in the car or a separate room until you are called.

Better not: on the floor curious dogs or cats can approach it, and that is very frightening for a bird, which is a prey animal. Keep the carrier higher up, on a chair or your lap, and cover the side facing other animals.

The carrier should be clean, but leave any droppings passed during the trip so the vet can see them. If the bird is ill or an infection is suspected, wash and disinfect the carrier thoroughly with a bird-safe product after the visit.

For a weak bird lower the perch right down or lay a soft towel instead, so it can rest on the floor. Keep it warm but not hot, cover the carrier and get it to an avian vet as quickly as possible.

Usually a bird should not be fasted before a visit, because small birds have a fast metabolism and weaken quickly. If anaesthesia or tests are planned, follow the vet's instructions, as they may ask you to withhold food briefly.

Warning signs are open-beak breathing at rest, the tail bobbing with every breath, wheezing or clicking sounds, or the bird sitting on the floor with its feathers fluffed up. In that case contact an avian vet straight away.

No, the sick bird may infect the other, and the stress of travel weakens both birds' immunity. Carry them in separate carriers, and after the visit wash and disinfect the sick bird's carrier separately.

Yes, breeders often put the bird in a small cardboard box, but it is safer to bring your own sturdy carrier. At home a new bird is usually recommended to be kept apart from other birds in quarantine and shown to a vet.

A young bird still grips the perch poorly and chills quickly, so lay a soft towel on the floor, fit the perch very low and keep it warm. Keep the trip as short as possible, and if it is still hand-fed, ask the breeder how to feed it on the way.

Older birds often have weaker legs and are more sensitive to cold, so a thicker, lower perch or a non-slip floor to rest on helps. Avoid long journeys without breaks and watch whether the bird looks exhausted.